Frequently asked questions
The questions readers send us most often, answered without hedging and without pretending to know more than we do.
Can I tell whether a watch or a bag is genuine just by looking at it?
Not reliably, and anyone who claims otherwise is guessing. Copies usually reproduce the parts you can see and cheap out on the parts you cannot: movement finishing, internal case construction, hallmarks, stitching density, hardware plating and the underside of straps. A careful inspection of those areas raises or lowers confidence, but no single feature proves anything. The dependable route is documented provenance plus an inspection by someone who works on these objects professionally, and even then the honest answer is a probability rather than a certificate.
Does a certificate, box or receipt prove an item is authentic?
No. Papers and packaging are among the easiest things to reproduce, and they travel separately from the object once it is resold. They are still worth having, because they support provenance and make resale simpler, but treat them as one input among several. Where a maker keeps service records or a serial number register, a check against that record is more useful than any document in the box.
Do full-grain leather or a sapphire crystal mean an item is well made?
They set a floor, not a guarantee. A material tells you what the maker started with, not what they did with it. Two bags can use the same grade of leather and differ entirely in how the panels are cut, whether edges are finished or merely painted, how the lining is attached and whether stress points are reinforced. Judge materials together with construction and finishing, and look hardest at the parts nobody photographs.
How often does a mechanical watch need servicing?
Most makers publish intervals somewhere between five and ten years, and the useful answer depends on the movement and how you wear it. A watch that keeps time within its stated tolerance, winds smoothly and shows no fogging or moisture intrusion does not need to be opened purely because a number of years has passed. If it starts losing or gaining noticeably, feels rough when wound, or has been submerged after a knock, get it assessed. Ask what the interval recommended for your specific reference is rather than assuming one figure applies to all watches.
What does a watch service actually include?
Typically the movement is partly or fully disassembled, cleaned, relubricated and reassembled, gaskets and any worn parts are replaced, the movement is regulated, and the case is pressure tested afterwards. Two items are optional and worth agreeing in advance: case and bracelet refinishing, and replacement of parts that are worn but functional. Refinishing removes metal, so for anything collectible confirm whether it will be done before you hand the watch over, and say no if you would rather keep the original lines.
Should I polish out scratches on a watch case or bracelet?
Usually not. Polishing takes metal away and softens the transitions between flat surfaces and edges, which is exactly what people learn to look for when judging a used watch. Light scratches on a case are normal evidence of wear. A single deep gouge can be left alone too; most owners notice it far more than anyone else does. If you do want work done, ask for a conservative refinish that preserves the original geometry.
How should I store a leather bag or a watch I am not wearing?
Keep both away from direct sunlight, radiators and damp walls. Stuff a bag so it holds its shape, using the original pillow or unprinted tissue, and keep it in the dust bag rather than a sealed plastic container, which can trap moisture and encourage mould. Leather benefits from being used, so rotate bags rather than resting one for months. Watches should be stored dry and, if they are not worn for long periods, wound and run occasionally. A winder is optional and, for most watches, unnecessary.
What makes a used bag hold its value?
Demand for the particular model, not the brand as a whole, and demand changes. Within that, condition matters most: worn corners, stretched handles, damaged lining and faded hardware all cost more than most sellers expect. Completeness helps, so keep the box, dust bag and any receipt. Colour and material matter too, because the market is narrower for unusual finishes. Scarcity needs checking rather than assuming: ask whether a model is genuinely discontinued or simply released in small batches.
Do watches hold value better than bags?
It depends on the model, not the category. Some steel sports watches have kept their value or risen, many dress watches have not, and the same split exists in bags between a handful of sought-after shapes and everything else. Nobody can predict which will hold up next, and we do not try. If a purchase only makes sense at resale, it is a speculation rather than a purchase.
Where is the best place to buy second-hand?
Each route trades price against recourse. Peer-to-peer marketplaces are usually cheapest and offer the least protection, with no returns once funds are released. Established dealers and platforms charge more but handle authentication, offer a warranty period and take responsibility when something is wrong. Auction houses sit in between: competitive prices, but buyer's premiums, slower paperwork and sold-as-seen conditions, so budget for a service on top. Whatever the route, get the serial number, photograph the packaging, and pay in a way that leaves a record.
Can I trust resale price indexes?
Treat them as a direction of travel rather than a valuation. They are built from a sample of listings and recorded sales, and they struggle with condition, completeness, service history and the difference between asking prices and prices actually paid. A model that is 'up' in an index can still be difficult to sell at that figure. Use indexes to understand relative demand, then look at real recent sales for the exact configuration you own.